The Lightroom Range Mask

Revealing form and dimension in your images:

For most of the time its been around, the local adjustment tools in Adobe Lightroom have paled in comparison to the power and precision of the comparable masking and adjustment tools in Photoshop.  Lightroom’s attraction has always been its approachability and intuitive ease of use.  The gap between Lightroom and Photoshop noticeably narrowed with the introduction of the Range Mask feature added to the local adjustment tools.  It’s now much easier to quickly make very precise and refined selections for your local adjustments within Lightroom, and as is typical of Lightroom the process is simple and very intuitive.

In this video tutorial, we take a deep dive into using Range Masks with local adjustments in subtle ways to enhance three-dimensional form and texture in your images.

-BPSOP Instructor – Mark English

Mark Teaches:

After the Click: Refining Your Vision in Lightroom & Camera Raw

The Art of Printing & Selling Your Art

Develop your artistic voice

What do you find beautiful?

Is it nature?
Or something abstracted to the point of being unrecognizable?
Perhaps you find uniformity beautiful?

Whatever your answer, this is your personal style — your artistic voice — coming through.

Eliminate the unnecessary

Hans Hofmann (21 March 1880 – 17 February 1966) was one of the older abstract expressionist painters working in New York. As as an art teacher and writer he had strong influence on the younger American abstract artists after 1940.

Hofmann wrote, “The ability to simplify means to eliminate the unnecessary so that the necessary may speak.”

This is the central tenet of fine artist and photographer Brit Hammer’s newest course, Finding Beauty.

The art of minimalism

In photography we strive to declutter our images. Anything that distracts from the intended subject must be pushed out of frame.

How little can you have in your shot until it feels empty to you?

This is one of the questions you must ask yourself. By pushing more and more out of frame until you can’t go further, you arrive at the essence of a scene.

The process of arriving at a minimalist image can be applied to any genre of photography, including lifestyle and photography, architecture, and even outdoor sports.

Are you ready to develop your artistic voice?

The secret to developing your artistic style is to ask yourself the right questions, Brit explains in her tutorial “Find Your Artistic Voice”.

This same methodology of questioning has been applied to photography in Finding Beauty.

Below are some of the student images taken in just the first 3 weeks of the March Finding Beauty class. Images from the rest of this large class will be shared in subsequent posts.


Images: Curt Meinecke

“This is the best advanced class I have ever taken. Finding Beauty has been a true eye-opener me. Brit has helped me to develop a different style of photography that I am sure will help my overall photography. I highly recommend this class — especially to those who already have a basic understanding of photography — although that is not a requirement.” — Curt Meinecke


Images: Laura Russomano

“If you are looking to move more into fine art photography, then Finding Beauty is the course that will help you get there. While focused on minimalism, I found the concepts and techniques presented in this course to be easy to understand, while challenging me to expand my vision and shooting style. Brit’s critiques were extremely insightful and helped me to become more focused on developing my artistic voice.” — Laura Russomano


Images: Gisela Nily

“Less might be more! A beautiful image draws the eye and invites pondering what it actually is and what it might be. Warmth and calm can be achieved in an image. These are new ideas for me…I have been a person who likes riotous color and dramatic contrasts. This course has opened my eyes to so much more. Thank you!” — Gisela Nily


Images: Cristina Persico

Images: Cristina Persico

“I have always admired lifestyle images and the serenity they convey. Thanks to Brit’s teaching and suggestions in this beautiful course I learned how to tell a story in a different perspective. Thanks again for teaching me to seek beauty in simplicity!” — Cristina Persico



Finding Beauty

Authentic Photo Stories

Celebrate Your Life in Beautiful Images

Photography Essentials

Amazing Travel Photos Made Easy

** No post processing skills necessary for any of Brit’s courses **



Brit Hammer is an international award-winning photographer, bestselling author, and a celebrated artist whose work has aptly been called “fresh and optimistic”.

Her students love her “combination of extensive and well-organized photographic design principles…intuitive eye, patience, enthusiasm and holistic nurturing [because the results are] unbelievably incredible and inspiring student growth.”

Visit her website at

Dynamic Range

I usually try to stay away from seriously technical stuff, because to be honest most of it is above my pay grade!!


I feel so relieved having to ‘come right out’ and admit it. However, I feel like I should still contribute my two cents worth. This is because questions about exposure keep coming up in my online classes with the BPSOP, and recently in my Stretching Your Frame of Mind” workshops I conduct all over our (round) planet. I’m going to try and make this as simple to understand as I tell all my fellow photographers.

In photography, the “Dynamic Range” is the relationship between the darkest and lightest areas in a photo, generally going from pure black to pure white; pure black is pretty much impossible to achieve since there’s always a little detail in those areas.

There’s ‘High Dynamic Range’ which is achieved on a bright sunny day where there are areas in the sun and areas in the shade. ‘Low Dynamic Range is when it’s an overcast day or there’s little to no difference in your composition’s highlights, middle tones, and the shadows.

When photographers submit images, the one thing that they don’t pay attention to is the differences between the brightest part of the composition and the areas that are in shadows. If they’re shooting out in the light, then any centers of interest in the shadow are too dark. Conversely, if they’re shooting in the shaded areas the brightest area are blown out and all detail is lost…not good unless you’re consciously trying to do that.

Btw, when photographers are always listening to what the meter in their camera tells them, they really don’t have control…but I digress!!

Our eyes are simply amazing. As good as some of the current digital cameras are as far as the range between the bright areas and the areas in shadow their sensors can see, they’re no match for the human eye.

Cameras have a narrower dynamic range than the human eye, and get somewhere from 5 to 15 stops depending on what article you’re reading. This means that on a bright sunny day you often have to choose whether you “blow out your highlights”, or you make the shadows lacking of any detail. The human eye can perceive about 20 to 24 stops of dynamic range in ideal circumstances; depending on who you’re listening to.

Btw, it’s always better to shoot in RAW at a low ISO so you can take advantage of all the embedded data, and open the shadows enough to see a lot more detail.

One of, if not the most important aspects of Dynamic Range is that photographers never think about it; admittedly because it’s hard to control. Often, there’s just no way to have a range of tones in your images. It’s vital to have an understanding of your camera and it’s meter. I can tell you from years of shooting and teaching that the meter in your camera is going to be wrong most of the time. This is why I really push students to shoot on manual so they do have at least a little control.

Case in point: I had a student that was shooting in the barn on her ranch, trying to take a portrait of her favorite horse. The barn doors were opened so she could also show several horses in a corral just outside.

It was a bright sunny day when the sun was almost overhead, and inside the barn was considerably darker. The range of exposure between the outside and inside was too great to get the entire photo exposed properly.

The inherent problem is that our eyes can see all the color and detail in the barn and when looking outside, they will automatically adjust. The camera can’t do that, it’s either one or the other.

In other words, you can get a beautiful well exposed portrait of your horse and the outside will be void of any detail, or you can expose for the outside, and you’ll lose everything in the inside.

So here comes the dilemma, or at least as far as I’m concerned.

There is a way to come out with a well exposed photo, and that is combining two or three photos into one or as they call it…HDR

I say to each his own, but to me that’s computer art and not photography. I’ve been shooting for fifty years, and in that time I have never had to blend more than one photo….and my pictures have been coming out pretty good.

Look for alternatives…ways to solve the problem in the camera. I have found that by thinking before shooting I’ve come home with photos I can share with others.

-BPSOP Instructor: Joe Baraban

Joe Teaches:

Stretching Your Frame of Mind I 

Stretching Your Frame of Mind II

The Use of Gestalt in Photography

The Best Way to Capture and Create Balanced Exposures

With the high quality of Digital SLR and mirror-less cameras these days, you have all the tools at your fingertips to create beautiful balanced exposures. The secret to creating well exposed images is knowing how much light you have captured in your image, and that you can discern from watching your histogram carefully when you are shooting.

From the example below, you can see that the image itself appears to be very dark with no information in the shadows. However, it you look at the histogram, you will see that there is information in the darks (on the left side of the histogram there is space between the”spike” and the left “wall”). That means there is an opportunity to bring up the darks and create a compelling image.


This is an example of a balanced histogram. Notice there are no spikes on either the left wall or the right wall of the graph. If there was a spike flat on the left wall, it would mean that there was no information in the dark areas or shadows in the image. If there is no information, you are not able to bring up the darkest areas in post processing. It looks like this image is too dark, but the histogram is telling us something different.

If your histogram is balanced, you will have much more opportunity to create beautiful imagery rather than fight with an over exposed or under exposed area in post processing.

The secret to creating great images in Lightroom is, number one, getting it right in camera. (or as close as possible). I prefer to see a solid histogram that shows that there is information in both the highlights and the shadows of the image. That will make your post processing job a whole lot easier.

Here’s another example of the first image we looked at after image editing was applied in Lightroom. Quite a difference!


Balanced histogram allows you to bring up the shadows in an image.

The image above is the edited version of the first image in this article. Notice how the histogram has shifted over from the darkest areas of the graph and there are no “blown out” or underexposed areas. With some minor adjustments of bringing up the shadows, and bringing down the highlights, this image changed considerably and went from a “throw out” to a an interesting piece.

Here’s another histogram example:


Here’s an example of an underexposed histogram

The example of above is an underexposed histogram. Notice the “spike” on the left wall showing there is no information in the darkest areas of the image. It’s easy to see what the graph is telling you if you look at the dark rocks in the image. There is little or no chance of bringing up the shadows in this image, as it shows no information in the shadows.

This shows you the benefit of watching your histogram when you are shooting. If the image seems to dark or too light, and you watch your histogram, you will have a good idea of the potential of the picture when it comes to post processing down the line. It’s always important when you are composing a picture to think about what you might do with it in post processing. Then you are intentionally creating an image, not just a snap shot.

Digital photography is fully 50% image capture and 50% post processing. Learn how to make the best of your camera and the tools you have available to you!

Learn the tools to effective photo editing and work flow with my upcoming Lightroom Quick Start class.


BPSOP Instructor – Holly Higbee-Jansen

HollyHolly Higbee-Jansen is photographer, trainer, blogger, and workshop leader who enjoys teaching and the creative process. Her passions include teaching photography workshops in beautiful locations in California, Iceland, and the American West with her husband Mark. Holly also teaches online classes on Lightroom, Photoshop and photographic technique. Get Holly’s Free E-Book on “Landscape Photography and the Light and find out about her newest workshops at Jansen Photo

Reach Holly by email at:  [email protected] and learn about Holly’s adventure’s at:

For a complete list of Holly’s current workshops go to:

Jansen Photo Expeditions –

Holly’s Portfolio:

Facebook –

Instagram –

Holly Teaches:

iPhone Photography
In this class, we will introduce you to the magic of iPhone photography using several shooting and editing apps that will give you the ability to make your pictures sing in a fun and easy way.You will learn how to crop, change saturation, brightness and affect the overall look of your pictures with HDR, drama and grunge filters and other techniques. You will be amazed at the simple and effective methods.






Lightroom Quickstart

Do you want to learn to create images that show the beauty of the scene you saw when you took the photograph? Do you want to learn the other essential side of digital photography, photo editing and get up to speed quickly?

This course is designed to get you up and running FAST in this incredibly powerful program. In this two week information packed class, you will learn how to import, organize and perform simple and effective editing processes that will let you produce beautiful adjustments to your pictures.



For More FREE Photo Tips…. Subscribe to our Newsletter

  • Kudos to Patrik & Monika for this flower course. I have been taking flower photos for around 5 yrs, and was in a rut, this course gave me so many new ideas to tryout. I can't wait to try some of the other ideas in this course. Thanks a million for your wonderful ideas for flower photography. Read More
    Emil Photographing Flora
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • 6
  • 7
  • 8
  • 9
  • 10
  • 11
  • 12
  • 13
  • 14
  • 15
  • 16
  • 17
  • 18
  • 19
  • 20
  • 21
  • 22
  • 23
  • 24
  • 25
  • 26
  • 27
  • 28
  • 29
  • 30
  • 31
  • 32
  • 33
  • 34
  • 35
  • 36
  • 37
  • 38
  • 39
  • 40
  • 41
  • 42
  • 43
  • 44
  • 45
  • 46
  • 47
  • 48
  • 49
Translate »